MUSINGS FROM THE BOWER 18
　
Cornwall is a mystical land. I can’t be the only one to sense the uniqueness of the county, and once I’ve passed the sign saying ‘Kernow’ and seen the black and white Cornish flags flying, I know I’m in a special place. From harbours teeming with life and packed with brightly coloured boats to tiny sandy inlets with a gull or two for company, and from bleak heather-clad moors to bustling towns, I’ve explored most of the land over the many years I’ve visited.

This time though, my husband and I were there just for a short three-night break, staying at a Premier inn at Fadden, not far from Newquay. (An excellent place to stay, incidentally, with really friendly staff.) We had almost reached our destination when I saw a sign reading ‘Screech Owl Sanctuary’, so we turned off and were soon amongst owls of all shapes and sizes. If you’re ever that way, do go and visit – we were introduced to a number of owls and allowed to stroke their heads or tummies. They seemed to enjoy it! The owls were brought over by a handler one at a time, and she worked up from a tiny burrowing owl to an enormous eagle owl, via tawnys, barn owls and other delights. She explained about each type of owl, telling of their habitat, peculiarities and how they lived in the wild. One young owl was hopping up and down as if to say, ‘My turn now. Pick me!’

The following day we visited the Bodmin and Wenford railway, which was running steam engines, as my husband is a great steam enthusiast. We did the full ride, both ways, from Bodmin General to Boscarne Junction and back, and then from Bodmin General to Bodmin Parkway and back. I find travelling steam trains very therapeutic – the clattering rhythm whisks me straight back to my childhood, and also brings to mind the poem by Robert Louis Stevenson that so cleverly encapsulates the rhythm:

Faster than fairies, faster than witches,
Bridges and houses, hedges and ditches;
And charging along like troops in a battle
All through the meadows the horses and cattle:
All of the sights of the hill and the plain
Fly as thick as driving rain;
And ever again, in the wink of an eye,
Painted stations whistle by.
Here is a child who clambers and scrambles,
All by himself and gathering brambles;
Here is a tramp who stands and gazes;
And here is the green for stringing the daisies!
Here is a cart runaway in the road
Lumping along with man and load;
And here is a mill, and there is a river:
Each a glimpse and gone forever!

Later, we went along to Padstow, one of my favourite places in Cornwall – there are plenty of seats around the harbour, and sometimes there is a band playing. There was no band on Monday when we went, but the cries of the gulls provided their own special type of music! I watched a turnstone pottering around the quay, moving so quickly he looked like a clockwork bird rather than a real, feathery one, and I also saw a delightful dog being given his very own ice cream cone, which he was licking with relish.

We returned to the motel, stopping for a while en route at Mawgan Porth, a special place for us, as it is where we spent our holiday the first time that we visited Cornwall, back in the early 1970s. We continued to holiday there right through to the late 1980s, introducing our children to the delights of the area, especially the beautiful beach of Mawgan Porth. This time we spent an hour or so walking the wonderful, beautiful sandy beach, watching the waves breaking on the rocks at each side of the bay.

Tuesday morning found us at another pretty harbour, Mevagissey, and the sky was a glorious shade of blue while the sun was reflecting off the reds, blues and greens of the boats, making them dazzle. Fishermen were sorting their nets by the quayside and gulls were fighting over starfish and crabs in the harbour mud. There were a few swans around, too, and a cluster of turnstones were bathing in some shallow water. People were enjoying the unexpected warm sun, eating ice creams or Cornish pasties as they watched the boats.

Just after lunch, though, the weather changed and the sky was a mass of grey. It wasn’t long before the rain came, which it did in absolute torrents. We made our way to the Eden Project, knowing that we would be warm and dry in the biomes there. Luckily, we had season tickets, so were soon inside, ignoring the noise of the rain as we feasted our eyes on tropical and subtropical plants. As usual, I made a beeline for the huge bull and other statues in the ‘Rites of Dioysus’ exhibit by Tom Shaw in the olive grove in the Mediterranean dome; the statues are so vivacious that they give the impression they will suddenly come to life and dance.

The next day it was time to come home – I was pleased to see that though the garden bore signs of heavy rain, with the lawn sodden and water dripping from the crab apple trees, the bower was still dry. It was still sporting passionflowers and purple clematis, and the green and orange cushions on its benches were as welcoming as ever!