MUSINGS FROM THE BOWER 43
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| View from the flat |
I deserted the bower for a week to stay in North Wales, such a beautiful area with magnificent scenery and lot of places to visit. We were staying in Portmadoc, in a flat alongside the tidal Afon Glaslyn, right near the bridge which the West Highland Railway now runs across on its journey to Caernarvon. These steam trains make the journey a few times a day depending on the season, and we enjoyed watching them from the window.
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| Portmeirion |
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| Portmeirion |
The weather wasn’t particularly good – we had several rainy days, but then Wales needs the rain to make all those streams and waterfalls impressive, as well as to keep the glorious countryside green and fresh. One of the places we visited was Portmeirion, a favourite place of mine, which was designed by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis in the 1920/60s as an Italianate village. It’s very beautiful and is where the cult tv series 'The Prisoner was filmed a few decades ago. Each time I visit I am struck by the peaceful atmosphere of the village. However many visitors there are, somehow the surrounding hills and trees absorb the noise. I always try to visit on a sunny day, because then the blues, pinks and golds of the buildings really come to life, glowing in the light. The gardens are colourful, there are plenty of places to sit, and the trickling of the fountains and the singing of the birds makes for blissful relaxation.
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| Beddgelert |
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| Wood shop Beddgelert |
Another favourite place of mine is Beddgelert, named after ‘Gelert’, who, according to legend was a brave dog, slain in error. The story goes that Llewelyn, a prince of North Wales, went hunting, leaving his dog, Gelert, at his home. When he returned, Gelert rushed towards him covered in blood, and the Prince was horrified to discover that his son’s cot was empty. He thought the dog had killed his son and slayed him with his sword. Then he heard a baby’s cry, and found his son next to the body of a wolf that the brave dog had killed. Today, a monument marks the faithful dog’s resting place. This very pretty village has a stream flowing through the centre, and many old cottages.I love to sit on the wall by the river, watching the swallows and looking out for grey wagtails.The village also has a few shops, one of which is a woodcraft shop. At one time, all the items were made on the premises but nowadays, wooden goods are brought in. There are some intriguing things there, notably beautiful carvings of British birds, some of which came home with me. Outside the shop are two large and impressive wood sculptures, one of an eagle the other of a dragon. The other thing that I like about Beddgelert is its award-wining ice cream parlour, which sells all kinds of delicious flavours of ices and sorbets, all made on the premises!
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| Aberglaslyn Pass |
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| Welsh Highland Railway |
Naturally, one day we made the return trip from Portmadoc to Caernarvon on the Welsh Highland Railway – it takes 2 ½ hours each way, with a break at Caernarvon. It is possible to leave the train there and catch one a couple of hours later, but we decided to go back on the same train as it was a wet day and we have been to Caernarvon many times before. The train runs through the Aberglaslyn Pass - a narrow gorge with a fast-flowing river – as well as through Snowdonia, so the scenery is amazing. The wild flowers, in particular, were impressive – masses of foxgloves, moon daisies, dog roses, red campion, cottongrass, and even some late bluebells. The railway was originally closed before the war, and the track removed. During the early 1990s we – my husband, our two (then young) children and I – walked through the 280 metres long, deserted Aberglasyn tunnel. It was pitch black, and we didn’t have torches – I was so relieved when we saw daylight at the far end. Now, though, the track has all been re-laid and the trains once more can travel through the tunnel.
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| Ffestiniog |
We also rode on the Ffestiniog steam train railway to Blaenau, a journey we have taken many times over the years and one I never tire of - the railway looks down on deep wooded valleys, it's stunning. The Ffestiniog journey is a 27 mile round trip, which runs along the cob – the mile-long embankment across the Glaslyn estuary – before climbing up to Blaenau, the slate mining town. It’s a single track narrow gauge railway.
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| Llyn Gwynant |
There was plenty of wildlife to see, too – lots of birds on the river, lakes, estuary and along the coast as well as at the RSPB Glaslyn Osprey project. The scenery was stunning, and we kept stopping along the route (luckily, around Snowdonia there are plenty of viewpoint parking places) to admire the views, especially of the mountains and the deep valleys. No wonder we keep returning to this beautiful place.
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| Snowden |
